"All this he saw, for one moment breathless and intense, vivid on the morning sky; and still, as he looked, he lived; and still, as he lived, he wondered."

Egyptian Schedule – Day 4

Provided we survive day 3, day 4’s schedule was left empty by the tour organizers. To revive people, I think. We leave for Luxor at 18.30, though, so I think there will be time for one final expedition to the Coptic Cairo.

1. Coptic Cairo

In case you’re not familiar, the district is a predominantly Christian area and features some incredible monuments (mostly churches, to be fair) and includes the so-called Babylon Fortress, an Ancient Roman stronghold built with the arrival of emperor Augustus. The Hanging Church lies next to it, named for its location above one of the gatehouses and officially dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and it’s believed to be the oldest church in all of Egypt.

Another interesting feature is the Church dedicated to St. Philopater Mercurius, the double-sworded, a building which hosted the seat for the Coptic Orthodox Pope of Alexandria between 1300 and 1500. Its saint, Mercurius, was a Roman soldier of Scythian descent, born in Cappadocia, who served as a soldier under Emperor Decius. Having befriended the Emperor, it is said he tried to intercede against the persecution of Christians, but to no avail. Having refused to pray with the Emperor, he was beheaded aged 25.

Of course the district couldn’t miss a church dedicated to St. Mena, possibly the Coptic saint who was set on fire and burned unharmed for three days.

2. Luxor

Luxor is around 650 km down the Nile from Cairo, and it includes the site of the Ancient Thebes. I’ll sleep directly on board the ship, as the next day we depart for the river cruise. Hopefully, no one will get murdered.

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